A Stockholm Smorgasbord

The best way to say thank you in Swedish is "tack sa mycket" (pronounced: tahk-sah-mick-it). . . . The subway in Stockholm ("tunnelbana") costs 2 ticket coupons, you can always use the same ticket twice in one hour.. . . The kingdoms of Sweden, Norway and Denmark were once united, under a symbol of three crowns. Sweden kept the symbol (you'll see it atop the City Hall in Stockholm), uses it everywhere-the Swedish hockey team that recently be at the Russians was called "The Three Crowns." Taxis are expensive in Stockholm-particularly for the long ride from Arlanda Airport to the heart of town. Take the airlines bus instead, and learn to use the subway (T-bahn) and trolleys in town. . . .

A late night's snack? On the Norrmalmstorg side of the City Garden Park ("Kungstradgarden"), you'll find lines of late-night stands serving waffles, fruit, hot sausages. . . . To my ear, Swedish sounds more mellifluous than Danish. . . .

A walk along the Kungsgatan at night is a must. . . . Another fact about Stockholm: it has more museums than any European city other than London and Paris. Top ones to visit are the National Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of Antiquities; but if you have time for only one, make it the Museum of Modern Art, on the Skeppsholmen, which is open every day from 10 -18, on Tuesdays 10 to 20, Mondays closed, charges only 80 SEK / 60 SEK admission, and is free for those 18 and under.

FARSTA AND VALLINGBY

The two suburbs of Stockholm that bear the foregoing names were both constructed entirely in the last century, according to rigid architectural plans laid down by Sweden's top city planners.

Although I use the words "World of Tomorrow", that is exactly what Farsta and Vallingby are entirely modern cities, with buildings that look as though they were lifted from a World's Fair.

Farsta is the newest and probably the most successful in conception. Simply take the subway ("tunnelbana") to the last "Farsta" stop, and then wander to the city center.

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